A matter of size

One of the important things to know before embarking on a project is the size/thickness of the thread that will be used. This will determine the sample that will be used as well as the size of the needles. Knowing how to determine the size of the yarn helps us find equivalent yarns that will respect the final appearance of the chosen pattern.

Any change in yarn size or equivalent needles will have a big impact on the final knitting result.

THE YARN COUNCIL OF AMERICA has developed a system with yarn manufacturers to standardize and standardize labeling across yarn sizes. We have taken these systems (with a few changes learned with practice) as a basis to prepare a small guide to help you find the right size for your projects.

It's much simpler than it looks, I promise!

– Lace
. Sample per 10 cm: 33-40 stitches. On the other hand, lace yarn is normally knitted with much larger needles than its real sample for an openwork and light effect characteristic of lace.
. Footage:
For the cobweb, the finest lace yarn traditionally used to knit lace shawls, scarves and christening dresses: 1,400-1,200 m per 100g. Like Jared Flood's BRIDGEWATER shawl.

For lace yarns that are not cobweb it is necessary to count around 800 m per 100g. It is a perfect size for making complex lace patterns, such as the LAMINARIA shawl, but also very good for knitting light sweaters for the summer.

– Fingering or Knitting weight (Super fine)
Fingering is the thickness of sock yarn par excellence. Most of the time this wool is treated to be machine washable. Often used to knit layettes. It is also the thickness used to compose the traditional color palette of the Fair Isle of the Shetland Islands in Scotland. Like THIS JACKET by Kate Davis knitted with SHETLAND BY JAMIESON & SMITH .

. Sample per 10 cm: 27-32 stitches with needles 2 – 3.25 mm. Like lace yarn, fingering yarn is also used for openwork designs with larger needles than the suggested gauge, especially for knitting shawls.
. Footage
Between 500 – 600 m for a light fingering and 400 m for a fingering like the MERINO SINGLES FROM RIVERSIDE STUDIO .

– Sport (End)
Size created in North America to categorize yarns that fall between two sizes, in the case of Sport Weight between Fingering and DK. Perfect for knitting mid-season sweaters like the LIGHTWEIGHT CARDIGAN BY HANNAH FETTIG .

. Sample per 10 cm: 23-26 stitches with 3.5 – 4 mm needles.
. Yardage: About 300m per 100g

– DK or Double Knitting (Light)
Size goes everywhere, perfect for accessories, clothing or a blanket. It's great for a thicker, warmer shawl like ALICIA PLUMMER'S CAMPSIDE .

. Sample per 10 cm: 21-24 stitches with 4 – 4.5 mm needles
. Meterage: about 250m per 100g

– Worsted (Medium)
Like Sport, this size was created in North America to categorize yarns that fall between two sizes, in this case between DK and Aran. The ideal size for beginners to knitting because in the middle of the sizes, neither too big nor too fine. Perfect for knitting accessories, garments or blankets.

. Sample per 10 cm 20-18 stitches with 4.5 – 5mm needles
. Yardage: about 230 m per 100g

– Aran (Medium)
. Sample per 10 cm: 18-16 stitches with 5 – 6 mm needles
. Yardage: Between 180 and 200 m per 100g

– Bulky/Chunky
Perfect for high-speed knits like the PADLOCK IN TWO VERSIONS collar and the ME COL! .
. Sample per 10 cm: 12 -15 stitches with 7 – 10 mm needles
. Yardage: About 180 m per 100g

– Super Bulky or Roving (Very thick)
Perfect for knits that are even quicker to knit, such as the YÉTI HAT and THE YÉTI SCARF .
. Sample per 10 cm: 17 – 10 stitches with 10 – 15 mm needles
. Yardage: About 45 m per 100g

– Jumbo or Roving (Giant)
. Sample per 10 cm: 6 stitches at least with 20 – 25 mm needles
. Yardage: About 115m per kg

This guide is just a yardage reference and denominations may change depending on the manufacturer. When making substitutions to knit a pattern, rather than relying on the size indicated on the label, think about the ratio between the yardage and the weight, this will give you a more reliable idea of ​​the size of the wool used. . It should be remembered that the composition of the yarn and its construction also have an impact on the yardage and this is an important component to keep in mind when finding a substitute.

A little tip; it is always possible to double, triple, quadruple a thread to obtain a thicker thread. Always keep in mind that the thicker the yarn the less yardage there will be. A simple and logical progression: if you double the lace yarn you get a Fingering, if you double the Fingering you get a DK, if you double a DK it's Aran. If you double a Sport you get a Worsted. To have a Bulky you have to double the Worsted.

Now that you know how to find an equivalent thread by yardage, would you also be able to find by its composition? Another fiber guide will be posted on the blog soon. Stay tuned!

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